Travel review: What to expect when glamping at the Under Canvas Lake Powell-Grand Staircase
When I told my husband that we were sleeping in a tent, in early summer, in the desert, his reaction was not one of joy. "There's no electricity. That means no A/C. It's over 90 degrees. How will we sleep? I don't know about this," he bemoaned.
That hesitancy all went away once we actually arrived at Under Canvas Lake Powell.
From the moment we entered the air-conditioned Lobby we enjoyed our experience–from the F&B options to the local recommendations to the nuances (most of them) that come with staying in a tent.
Make no mistake, the days were hot. Sizzling. Steamy. Spicy. But the Under Canvas service, the team, and the landscape made the heat quite bearable. And the fans. And a lot of cold beer.
The trip
When: 5 days/4 nights in mid-May 2022
Why: My 50th birthday road trip
Where: The Stargazer Tent #29 at the Under Canvas near Lake Powell. Technically, you are in Big Water, Utah. (For timezone purposes, that is necessary knowledge.) Each "room" is a safari-style canvas tent with a private ensuite bathroom, deck with chairs, and a wood-burning stove (clearly we did not use that). The Stargazers have a plastic window above the bed for an unobstructed view of the sky. (And eye masks for that early morning sunshine.)
How: We drove first from Phoenix to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, and then to Under Canvas. That was about a three-hour trip. It would have been 4.5 hours had we come directly from Phoenix.
Cost: $379/night.
All the beautiful things
This part of the country can be described as otherworldly, but we'll get to that in a moment. First, let's talk about one of TripAdvisor’s 2022 Travelers’ Choice Hottest New Hotels. In their own words, the resort is, "an ideal spot to discover the splendor of the American Southwest. Perched on a Canyon Rim Plateau with its own on-site slot canyon and sweeping views right outside your tent."
All true, and all just scratching the surface.
Just a short drive off Hwy 89, (you'll come to know this one road well), you're set back in a quiet and condensed cluster of canvas.
Fifty-one tents dot the plateau, some slightly larger, some with an adjoining "kids tent," all essentially the same. The Stargazer had plenty of room for the two of us. A very comfortable king-sized bed (with a view of the night sky), a couple of chairs, a storage trunk, two nightstands, and two battery-operated USB chargers–for your phones, lanterns, and bedside fans. NOTE: The staff will replace the chargers at any time. Either you bring them down to the Lobby Tent or text the front desk and they will replace them.
Speaking of texting... this process was freaking seamless! Ahead of our arrival, we received a welcome text with check-in details. We then used the service to ask questions about the area, request housekeeping, or have those above-mentioned chargers swapped out.
Now, back to the tent: The ensuite bathroom was super convenient. Although it didn't afford a lot of privacy, it took glamping to a new level. That in-tent shower at the end of the day was incredible. And believe it or not, you can shampoo out days of red dirt with one hand while the other holds down the water pull chain. The water pressure was strong and it was as hot (or cold) as we needed it to be.
We didn't spend much time inside the tent during the heat of the day, instead spending it hiking or just out in the world. When we'd return in the late afternoons, we'd sit on the patio and read, rest, and bask in any baby breeze that came our way.
Under Canvas is much more than the canvas
As comfortable as the tent is, there are two other things that really make this property shine. The first is the community aspect. The property is designed around the Lobby Tent/Embers, Games Area, Firepits, and Outdoor Dining.
This is where we gathered in the morning for coffee and breakfast and this is where we spent most evenings. We usually ate dinner inside with the A/C and then retreated outdoors to watch the sunset, plot world domination, drink wine, and eat s'mores. (The latter being complimentary.) There were always people milling around and it was lovely to eavesdrop, swap hiking trail recommendations, and just be around other adventurous humans.
The second is the location. Under Canvas is under 30 minutes to Page, AZ, and less than an hour to Kanab, UT. (Kanab has way better dining options.) You're near all the main reasons people come to the area, and close enough to still get off the beaten path and make it back for dinner that night.
Be the tourist
Most people know about this part of UT/AZ because of Instagram. Horseshoe Bend Overlook, Antelope Canyon, Lake Powell, and The Wave all make frequent social media appearances for good reason. They are stunning.
I'd highly recommend doing Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon (prioritize Lower, but both are lovely) on the same day. Neither are strenuous and both are jammed with "influencers" or wannabees in carefully curated clothes, makeup, and poses. They come in droves and each one of them will take every single shot that every other person has ever posted on IG and Snap. Trust me, unless you are one of them, one day is all you can handle.
The good news is, there are so many people around that you can always find someone to take your picture.
Horseshoe Bend is busiest in the mornings and evenings for sunrise and sunset. There's no entrance fee to the park, but there is a $10/vehicle parking charge. We've been told that the best way to experience Horseshoe Bend is from the water, and we'll make sure that happens next time.
To visit Antelope Canyon, you need an authorized Navajo guide as it is on the Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park. For Lower, we used Dixie's. There are only two options–Dixie's and Ken's, and they are family, so you can't go wrong.
Expect to pay about $50 + tip/person. At the time we went, Covid restrictions on the reservation were still in place, meaning masks had to be worn for the entire tour and capacity was limited. (Fewer people was a benefit, and I can't imagine shoving even more people in these tight canyons at the same time.)
💡Pro tip: get to the front of your tour group. The influencers all lag behind as they are posing in front of every familiar rock formation. Being in front gives you a few minutes without crowds and a higher likelihood you'll have the chance to actually enjoy the scenery.
We also did Upper Antelope, Rattlesnake, and Owl Canyons with a private guide later in the week. The latter two are not on the big tours and much more interesting.
The Wave really limits the number of visitors per day. Located in Coyote Buttes North, The Wave requires an advance permit from the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). You can apply 4 months in advance for the permit lottery or daily once you are in the geofence area. I applied multiple times and was never successful. Just know that in addition to potentially being disappointed, you'll also be charged $9.00 for each permit attempt.
Run away from the IGers
Once you've played tourist, it's time to get out on your own! There are hundreds, maybe thousands of fabulous trails and hiking. We consulted AllTrails and the front desk at Under Canvas to help us narrow things down.
Just down the road from Under Canvas is the Toadstool Hoodoo Trail. The hoodoos are tall spindly rock formations that were said to possess certain powers. The trailhead has plenty of parking and the path is easy to navigate. It was only lightly populated and you can wander a long time without any interruption. This is how I envision the set of Dune.
One of my favorite hikes of the entire trip was the Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch Trail. Located 8.5 miles off Hwy 89 on an unimproved road, you follow an easy sandy desert wash that leads you to the charming Wire Pass Slot Canyon. Once through, you can follow the world's longest slot canyon–Buckskin Gulch–for as far as you're interested or able. We did 6 miles RT and I loved every bit of it. We never found the trails crowded, and it's delightfully cool when you're inside the canyons. Like everywhere though, bring more water than you think you'll need.
If you really want to get out on your own, gas up your 4WD and take a ride to the Grosvenor Arch. I'd recommend you combine the Arch with a hike or two, unless you just want to piss off the person driving. (In this case the #hothusband.) We drove the rough and rocky 30 miles to the Arch from Hwy 89 down Cottonwood Canyon. It's a beautiful drive, but it does require patience, time (90+minutes each way), and a willing spirit.
All the small things
I'm going to get nit-picky about a few things. Really, this was a wonderful experience and these additions would take the resort from a 4.5 to a solid 5.
The outdoor chairs. We spent several afternoons on our deck as the tent was simply too hot to tolerate. But the tiny cushionless chairs got uncomfortable quickly. A little upgrade would go a long way.
Misters. Have I mentioned that it was hot? There were misters installed in the tents, but they weren't operational yet. I expect they will be a game changer.
The bathroom. A caddy in the shower. Some lotion. A hook for the hand towel. I told you these were nit-picky.
Storage. A second luggage rack. Hooks to hang up clothes. A hasp and lock for the trunk. So much nit-pickiness.
Now, to really upgrade the experience, we'd love to see covered parking and an option to pay for daily delivery of ice and coffee in the morning. (Although I didn't mind watching #hothusband walk up to the Lobby Tent in his short robe each day.)
💡Tips for travelers
We kept a cooler in the tent for cold water and drinks. Each day we'd ask for ice from Embers and they'd happily oblige.
Don't pay for water! While not quite an industrial water system, there is a bottle filler in Embers.
The tents do get noisy. Although you are far enough away from each other, noise does travel. And on windy nights you'll be awakened by canvas flapping. Since I'm a light sleeper we travel with a portable white noise machine and we used it every evening. (Bonus, it charges via USB.)
You're going to get dirty. Red dirt dirty. We kept clean clothes and extra shoes in the truck to change into after our hikes. It didn't prevent dirt from getting everywhere, but I like to think it mitigated things a bit.
The Sunshine laundromat in Page is a gem. We'd drop our hiking clothes off at the wash-and-fold in the morning and by that afternoon we'd get a text that they were ready for pickup. $14 well spent.
Everything was dirty, so we ran the JW through a self-service wash in Page, twice.
Ask the front desk for a copy of the below map. (Or snag a photo like we did.) You'll bounce frequently between Utah and Arizona which likely means between timezones. It was helpful to have a dumb map to confirm which state we were in as our smart phones couldn't keep up. And you're often in areas without a solid cell or wifi signal.
🚨 TMI - don't read if you don't want to know
Feeling frisky
Unlike the sex killer that was the El Tovar, the Under Canvas had us feeling frisky. Maybe it was the cooler nights, the stars, the weary limbs, or the sunburns. It could have been all the s'mores sugar and wine. Nonetheless, our tent neighbors were likely very happy that we had a white noise machine to drown out all our happiness.
A bit of privacy in the loo
If it were me...
We're now Under Canvas fans and actively planning which one we'll visit next. As for Lake-Powell-Grand Staircase, go to this Under Canvas when the weather is not blistering. It's a unique experience and steps above the mediocrity of all the motels in nearby Page.
I won't tell you which tent we'll choose next time, (ok, it's either 8,9,10, or 12), but there isn't a wrong one on site. Don't forget your noise machine, neighbor, and we won't forget ours.
The ratings
Lodging:
Under Canvas Lake Powell-Grand Staircase ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Meals:
Embers Restaurant (B, D) ⭐⭐⭐⭐ - Quirky menu of locally sourced ingredients. I highly recommend the trout for dinner.
Bonkers (D) ⭐⭐ - Our service here was outstanding. Otherwise, this would be forgettable Italian in downtown Page.
Grand Canyon Brewing + Distillery (L) ⭐⭐ - Come for the beer, don't bother with the food. It was great to stop here after a hike for a snack and a cold one, but I wouldn't make a meal of it.
Wild Thyme Cafe (L) ⭐⭐⭐⭐ - This was so good we ate here twice. It's worth the drive to Kanab as it's hands-down better than anything you'll eat in Page.
LP Espresso (B) ⭐⭐⭐ - Nice little breakfast and coffee shop in Page.
Rocking V Cafe - We really, really wanted to eat here, but alas never made it. Please partake and tell me all about it.
Sites:
Horseshoe Bend Overlook ⭐⭐⭐
Lower Antelope Canyon Tour ⭐⭐⭐
Best Friends Animal Sanctuary ⭐⭐⭐⭐ - The nation's largest sanctuary for homeless animals. It's huge, it's beautiful, it's run by magical humans. Take all my money, now.
Best Friends Roadhouse and Mercantile ⭐⭐⭐ - We didn't stay at the motel, but we did buy corgi keepsakes at the precious store.
Trails:
Elephant Slot Canyon Trail: Difficulty ⭐ Amazingness ⭐⭐
Toadstool Hoodoo Trail: Difficulty ⭐⭐ Amazingness ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Grosvenor Arch Trail: Difficulty ⭐ Amazingness ⭐⭐⭐
Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch Trail: Difficulty ⭐⭐ Amazingness ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Via Ferratas:
Cave Lakes Canyon: Difficulty ⭐⭐ Amazingness ⭐⭐⭐ - While I didn't get into it above, check out Roam Outdoor Adventure for some pre-built fun alongside some good guides.
We started our road trip at the Grand Canyon and the El Tovar Hotel. You can read about that here.
After Under Canvas, we spent the final third of the road trip at the luxury Amangiri resort. While we didn't see any celebrities, we did have a mind-blowing experience that was both full of legendary moments and colossal fails. Read on.